St Edmundsbury Borough Council Website




The History of the Site

 

The impact of man
From c.5000 BC The site has been occupied by a succession of peoples since the end of the last ice age. The site was used by stone age hunter-gatherer groups six or seven thousand years ago, who left behind concentrations of flint tools and waste flakes in eleven concentrations on that hill.

Altogether, with a scatter of such artefacts, some 21,000 flint flakes and tools were recovered. No evidence of domestic settlement was found, apart from the concentration of flint tools, which included many arrowheads.



Neolithic flints
c.2500 BCAt the west end of the hill there had been a circular late Neolithic burial mound surrounded by a broad ditch. In the centre of the mound there was a large pit with traces of a crouched burial with a single stone bead. This mound acts as a focal point for later Neolithic cremations, buried in the ditch-fill and the southern edges of the mound area. The mound itself had been much damaged by later activity and has long since been eroded away.
From c.300 BCCenturies later the hill was occupied by an Iron Age settlement, consisting of a number of circular huts, storage or rubbish pits and ditched enclosures for stock and small field plots. Two larger ditch systems, which had been recut many times, crossed the site from East to West and may have been a modest defence, or some form of boundary. The settlement, which lasted from the 3rd Century BC to AD60, probably represents the growth of a successful farmstead rather than a community. This settlement, or farm, is part of the widespread valley-bottom occupation of the Lark Valley at this time.
Roman flagons, dish & carinated bowl
From 70 AD Local changes and a new Roman administration may have lead to the abandonment of the farm before the setting up of a Romano-British pottery industry about AD70. At least ten pottery kilns have been found at West Stow, five of them in a tight group on the hill, together with two small rectangular buildings and eighty-four pits. Great quantities of waste pottery from these kilns were found which shows that the pottery industry continued for some seventy years.

In the early years it produced a great variety of very fine wares, ranging from white flagons to black bowls, some decorated with distinctive stamps and inscribed lines. Some vessels were stamped with the maker's mark. There is some evidence that the products were distributed well beyond the immediate area as some of the makers' stamps have been found at Colchester and as far away as Doncaster.

c.150 AD The site seems to have lain abandoned again from the mid 2nd Century until the coming of the Anglo-Saxon settlers in the 5th Century, used only perhaps for grazing.
c.367 - 370 AD Picts and Scots raided Britain in the North while Saxons raided in the South and Theodosius had to come from Rome to restore order again.
c.409 AD The Romano-British people were told to look after themselves without the aid of Roman soldiers as the army had been taken to Gaul in 406.
before c.420 AD Two miles to the west there was an important, large and apparently undefended settlement at Icklingham which continued to be occupied until the very last years of Roman Britain.
c.420 AD By 420 we believe that the village at West Stow was first occupied by the early Anglo-Saxon settlers.

What was it like here when the Anglo-Saxons arrived? There was a 'managed' landscape with Romano-British field systems; grazing for sheep on higher ground, water meadows and arable land all rather run down, as the economy collapsed.

Useful timber for building was to hand, and there were deserted sites, like the Icklingham Roman town nearby, where all kinds of useful things could be found and recycled such as tiles for hearths, bronze, iron and even bits of pottery.

It is believed that many of the Romano-British population survived the collapse of Roman Britain and were absorbed into early Anglo-Saxon society, some at least, as slaves.

There were no forests of pine trees - these are all 19th-20th Century plantations.

From about 420 AD for the next 200 years into the 7th Century the landscape in our area was settled by the Anglo-Saxons, whose little villages controlled areas of land which were to become the 'parishes' of later saxon and medieval times.

West Stow, sitting in the centre of the Lark Valley, was one of a number of similar 'villages' extending from the three round the later Bury St Edmunds to Mildenhall on the fen edge. The Blackbourn valley to the north-east has a similar distribution of sites. They are spaced out along the river banks with territories extending behind. Beyond these settled valleys, central Suffolk, a region of heavy, damp clay was returning to dense scrub and forest after the collapse of Roman settlement. This area was not occupied by the earliest Anglo-Saxon settlers. To the east, settlement penetrated the lighter sandlings of the coastal region much as in the west. To the west and south the river systems of Cambridgeshire were densely settled by Anglo-Saxons and were clearly related by their possessions to those in Suffolk.

Connections were maintained with the continent and Scandinavia with the import of articles of dress and fashion as well as technologies and art.

c.650 AD The period of occupation on the West Stow site lasted for over 200 years from 420 to 650. Around this time, over a period of perhaps 25 years, the village moved about a mile to the east perhaps around a new church. West Stow today is therefore centred on this new site. The original site was gradually deserted.

Who were the Anglo-Saxons? There is a separate section which looks at this question.

Early Medieval In Early Medieval times, the site was ploughed by the techniques which produced 'ridge and furrow' formations which can still be seen under grass elsewhere in England.
c.1280 In the later 13th Century the site was covered by blown sand, a phenomenon which was to continue to plague the Breckland sand areas into the 20th Century. The site lay undisturbed for nearly 500 years.
1720 The Lark navigation was constructed from Mildenhall to Bury St Edmunds under an Act of Parliament in 1700.
1836 The first one-inch ordnance survey maps were published. One map shows that the area west of the village was known as Leech Moor before it was called West Stow Heath.
C19th The locks and staunches on this stretch of the River were managed from a Lock Keeper's cottage west of the site, by the river. This cottage became known as River House.
1847 In 1847 men 'raising gravel for ballast' for the barges on the then navigable River Lark, found skeletons and numerous cremation urns.
Collection of grave goods
1849Between 1849 and 1852 a number of local 'antiquarians', as they were then called, made collections of Anglo-Saxon objects from this cemetery. Parts of these collections, made by John Gwilt of Icklingham, the Reverend Banks of Dillingham, Cambs and the Reverend Benyon of Culford, have survived and are to be found in the Anglo-Saxon Centre at West Stow, the British Museum (London), the Ashmolean (Oxford), the Museum of Archaeology (Cambridge), Thetford Museum and until recently, in Moyses Hall (Bury St Edmunds).
1878From 1878 to the 1890s, Henry Prigg of Icklingham was excavating Roman pottery kilns on the heath and found 'Anglo-Saxon urns etc' on the site of the then unsuspected village.
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The Pump House
1886Some 112 acres were purchased by the Borough Council for a new sewage farm to be constructed on the east side of the site to serve the town of Bury St Edmunds. This would replace the works built in 1863 at Bell Meadow in Bury. A pumping station was built by the River to pump effluent into the site from a tank at the end of the pipeline. This is the only building now remaining from this work. The expression sewage 'farm' came about because 20 acres of the site were to be used to grow crops to be irrigated from the outfall.
1897Windpumps were added to the sewage farm to help distribute liquid to higher ground.
1904In 1904 and 1905 the sewage works underwent extensive additional works.
1940In 1940 Basil Brown, the excavator of the royal ship at Sutton Hoo excavated two Roman pottery kilns on the site and again in 1947 continued there with Stanley West.
1947Consultants were asked to advise on restructuring the sewage farm as it had suffered continuously from smells and operational problems. Progress was slow and difficult.
1951Plans to upgrade West Stow Sewage Farm were abandoned. A new works was to be commissioned at Fornham All Saints.
1957From 1957 to 1961 the site was excavated by Professor Evison.
1959Work began on the Pigeon Lane pumping station and the Fornham Park treatment works to replace the West Stow works.
1962The Fornham Park treatment works was opened and the West Stow sewage farm was de-commissioned. The old settling beds were to become used as a landfill site for rubbish from Bury St Edmunds to replace tipping at the Haberden and Mount Road.
1963The Bury St Edmunds Motor Cycle Club was given a licence to hold three one-day scrambling events a year on land to the west of the village. They were allowed to occupy the site for 2 weeks prior to an event and 1 week after. This continued up to 1978.
Dr Stanley West during excavations
1965Dr Stanley West was contracted for three months a year to undertake excavations on behalf of, and funded by the Ministry of Public Buildings and Works, later to be part of the Department of the Environment. These continued in the summers up to 1972. It was in this period that the major part of the settlement was explored.

The archaeological evidence was well preserved under a great mound of blown sand deposited here during the medieval period. The non acidic nature of the soil preserved many pieces of 'evidence' not normally found, including thousands of animal bones, iron and bronze objects, and even seeds and grain, all of which have been used to extend our knowledge of the life of villagers.

All the buildings were of wood. In a few rare cases houses had been burnt, so that types of timber could be identified from the charcoal. Otherwise, house sites could be identified from the post holes where the wooden parts had long since decayed.

1971In 1971 the West Suffolk County Planning Officer proposed the idea of a Country Park at West Stow under the 1968 Countryside Act. Both sides of the river were considered and at the time there were a variety of uses being carried out here. Gravel was being extracted south of the river and lakes were expected to result. Refuse tipping was in full swing east of the village site, and one of the three dwellings known as Wideham Cottages was occupied by a tip worker, the other two being vacant and in disrepair. The river had fishing rights let, and there were shooting rights owned by the Council. The area west of the site was used for motor cycle scrambling events, and this was served by car parking in a field west of Wideham Cottages.
1972The excavations were wound up but Stanley West had the idea of launching a practical archaeology project based upon actually rebuilding some of the dwellings. His idea for a "living, experimental reconstruction of the past" was supported by the County Planner.

From the beginning, the site owners, Bury St Edmunds Borough Council, also supported the project in association with Dr West. However, the passing of the Local Government Act of 1972 meant that on 1st April 1974 the old Borough Council was to be replaced by a new District Council amalgamating the towns of Bury St Edmunds and Haverhill with the surrounding Rural Districts of Thingoe and Clare. The West Suffolk County Council was also to merge with East Suffolk to produce Suffolk County Council.

In order to safeguard the site against the uncertainties surrounding the transfer of ownership under Local Government reorganisation, various ideas were considered.

Work in progress
1973 A unique programme of reconstructions of Anglo Saxon dwellings was started with the aid of a group of Cambridge students enrolled and directed by Stanley West. They called themselves the West Stow Environmental Archaeology Group. The aim was to explore the techniques of building and woodworking thought to have been used by the early Anglo-Saxons. Little or nothing was known about this and various theories were explored. Some people had suggested the Anglo-Saxons lived in a hole in the ground with a simple roof over it, so an example was built. Its performance and decay could then be assessed and a view taken on whether it was really a practical idea or not. They won a grant of £500 from Anglia Television and their other costs were met by Bury St Edmunds Borough Council.

In August 1973 it was suggested that the best body to oversee the village project would be a trust formed from members of the Borough Council, the County Council and outside experts. It would be called the West Stow Anglo-Saxon Village Trust.

West Stow dwellings
1974 In March 1974 the Borough of Bury St Edmunds entered into a deed of covenant committing its successors to lease the site to trustees and to allocate the project the sum of £10,000, subject to the setting up of a Trust. The money was to be earmarked from the proceeds of new gravel workings on land it owned, adjacent to the site. It also leased the gravel rights to Amy Roadstone Corporation. On 1 April the borough ceased to exist and it was replaced by St Edmundsbury District Council, (later to become St Edmundsbury Borough Council). Suffolk County Council was also created on 1 April, and one consequence of this was the establishment of the Suffolk Archaeological Unit with Stanley West in charge. Part of his duties were to continue overseeing the work at West Stow. In July 1974 the first meeting was held of the potential trustees to agree a Trust deed and consider progress on the project.
1975 In June, the Environmental Archaeology Group completed their third reconstructed dwelling.
1976 The West Stow Anglo-Saxon Village Trust was formally established to manage the site and employ the necessary staff. The trust inherited three completed houses and a start on the first hall. Refuse tipping had virtually ceased by now. Up to this date the council had managed the financing of the archaeology group through a holding account. The Trust now formally controlled its own finances and it was set up with £10,000 from St Edmundsbury Borough Council, £1,000 from Suffolk County Council and £25 from Breckland District Council.
1977 The Trust was registered as a charity by the Charity Commissioners.
1978 The licence to the Motor Cycling Club to run scrambling events was ended in December. The trust agreed to the setting up of a Friends scheme. The Job Creation Scheme supplied two men to build the Information Centre.
1979The rubbish tip was landscaped and West Stow Country Park was opened to the public in June after the River House was demolished and the shooting rights were extinguished. The car park was given a hard surface and the toilet block erected with grant aid from the Countryside Commission.
1981Gravel extraction ceased within the Park area, and the fishing lake was created.
1983Suffolk County Council joined the Borough in giving annual grant aid to the village, although it had been funding Dr West's post since 1974.
1988The first Visitor Centre was opened, and immediately attracted a large increase in visitors to the Country Park and the Anglo-Saxon reconstructions. It was operated to serve both the Country Park and the village site.
1992An ambitious ten year Development Plan was produced to increase the rate of progress on reconstructions and to formalise programmes of education about the site and the Anglo-Saxons.

Foreseeing the potential difficulties of the Trust managing the growing demands of the project and recognising the growing together of the Country Park and the village, the Trust and Borough Council entered a formal partnership. Under the partnership agreement the Borough now took over the employment of the construction staff together with day to day management. The Trust remained as the guardian of the village's authenticity and integrity. The Trust then appointed Dr Stanley West as its consultant archaeologist to carry out this role, oversee the reconstructions and keep records of progress.

1995The Development Plan was revised to incorporate a new Anglo-Saxon Centre adjacent to the existing centre to house and to display and interpret many of the finds from the site. The centre also displays the wider background to the Anglo-Saxon period.
1996The Heritage Lottery Fund agreed to give a grant of £491,000 towards the capital cost of £641,00 for this project.
1998Following tenders for the new Visitor Centre, it was found that additional money was needed. The Heritage Lottery Fund agreed to contribute an additional £21,970 and St Edmundsbury Borough Council found another £19,000. With a scheme budget of £682,000, the project was let to Hills of Ipswich.
1999The new Anglo-Saxon Centre, cafe + shop were formally opened by Dr Stanley West and the Mayor of St.Edmundsbury.